Thank you for choosing JM Automotive for your high-performance needs.

Please answer all of these questions to the best of your knowledge so the process of the engine build goes as smoothly as possible. This is to help multiple things including but not limited to:

• Knowing your goals with your vehicle will help us make sure we are doing the best build for your short term and long term needs. If you are looking for 500 WHP we would want to know what you plan to use it for. If you are straight line racing or doing some sort of track racing can dictate the recommendations to go with the build.

• Knowing your current modifications will help us know what your current build state is so we can properly recommend needed parts and give a more accurate estimate. This also helps our tuner make sure there are no supporting modifications missing that may be needed for reliability or maybe a reason your engine failed. And lastly this ensures our initial startup base map is spot on to ensure proper break in. If you do not know your modifications you will have to pay a technician of ours to identify your modifications.

• Knowing your vehicle year, make, model, transmission, and licence plate helps us ensure we have the correct parts for your vehicle here ready to go. With the license plate we can get your VIN number and have all of your proper OEM parts here. This all helps the turnaround process to be quicker.

• Knowing your previous mechanical problems will help us give you a more accurate estimate as well as fix those problems cheaper while the engine is apart rather than find out after we get it running.

We will be taking your car to speeds in excess of 100 mph on the dyno. If you are not comfortable taking your car up to 100 mph then it is not ready to be dyno tuned. If your car vibrates or pulls to one side at high speeds we can not tune it.

Car Information

Year

Manufacturer

Model

Transmission type
automanual

License Plate Number

A Cobb Accessport is Required for tuning All - 2015+ WRX and 2014+ FXT

Do you have a V2 or V3 AccessPort or no AccessPort? (If yes please list the model. Not sure which Accessport you have? Click here):

List of all the modifications to your car or the parts you/we are installing. If they are stock please write STOCK or if you do not know please write UNKNOWN.

Stock Downpipe/J-Pipe or Brand (A GESi cat is needed to not throw the P0420 code. If you are catless or have any other cat than the GESi you will likely throw a P0420. We can no longer disable that code on an Accessport)

Stock Up-Pipe or Brand/ External Wastegate

If you have an EWG, please list the spring pressure

If you have an EWG, would you like there to be flutter or no flutter
(ie. when the wastegate opens, do you want the exhaust to have a smooth sound or do you want it to have a fluctuation in sound.)

Stock Header or Brand

Stock Catback / Axleback or Brand

Stock Intake or Brand

Stock Intercooler or Brand

Stock Turbo or Brand

Stock Fuel Injectors or Brand

Flex Fuel Kit / Gauge Brand (if applicable)

Fuel Pressure Sensor Brand (if applicable)

Stock Fuel Pressure Regulator or Brand (On 2008-2021 STI running aftermarket injectors we require a Cobb or other aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. The stock regulator is known to cause the 2800 rpm stumble that can't be tuned out.)

If aftermarket FPR, what is the PSI base pressure

Stock in tank fuel pump or brand (Size)

Stock High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) or brand (Size) (Applies only to 2015+ WRX)

If aftermarket fuel pump, is it hardwired?

Stock Bypass / Blow Off Valve or brand

Stock Boost Controller or brand

2nd restrictor pill removed?
(applies only to 2015+ WRX if running the stock boost controller with aftermarket downpipe, instructions of how to remove the 2nd restrictor pill can be found here.)

Stock Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor brand (size)
(for 2002-2014 WRX/ 2004-2007 an upgraded MAP sensor is required to run above 22psi.)
(For 2008-2021 STI an upgraded MAP sensor is required to run above 26psi)

Stock Intake Air Temp (IAT) sensor or brand (An aftermarket IAT like GM or AEM is required to run Hybrid or full speed density on all EJ cars.)

Stock Engine or Built

If you have a built engine, please list any known part specs/brands

Stock Heads or Built

If you have a built heads, please list any known part specs/brands

TGV/Air pump/EGR deletes? If so, please list (if any of these are removed we are no longer able to shut the codes on with a Cobb Accessport. The TGV and EGR codes both put the car in limp mode and can't be on to be tuned and will not make full power if they are on.)

Do you have any other modifications? If so, please list

What kind of fuel is currently in your car?
(91 non oxy, 91, 92, 93, E60, E85, or other)

What fuel are we tuning on?
(91 non oxy, 91, 92, 93, E60, E85, Flex Fuel, or dual tunes)

Do you currently have or have had any Check Engine Lights?
(We CANNOT tune a car if it has a check engine light due to any mechanical problems, if you currently don’t have any codes but get a code after the car is running on the new base map we provided, please update us with what codes you have. Your car should NOT have any check engine lights when you come in for the tune.

We can no longer disable check engine lights with the Cobb Accessport.

Examples:

Front O2 Sensor - P0030, P0031, P0032, P0131, P0132, P0134

System too lean/rich - P0171, P0172, P2096, P2097

TGV stuck closed but not deleted - P2004-P2022

Speed Sensor code causing limp mode - P0500

AVCS codes, Cam/Crank Correlation, Cam Over Advance - P000A, P000B, P000C, P000D, P0011, P0014, P0016, P0017, P0018, P0019 P0021, P0024

Air pump - P2431, P2432, P2433

Again if you have any of the codes listed above we can NOT tune your car.

Do you have ANY mechanical problems?
(Example- Running Rich, Will not idle, Poor fuel economy, boost/vacuum leaks, Not hitting target boost, Overheating, major oil Leaks, or any coolant leaks. We can not tune a car with mechanical problems.)

How many miles do you estimate are on your clutch, is it a stock or aftermarket clutch, and do you suspect it's slipping?
Knowing how many miles on the clutch or if its slipping are important because we can not tune a car with a slipping clutch. If you suspect it's slipping it would be a good idea to get it replaced before the tune, If it slips on the dyno we unfortunately have to stop tuning and you will be charged for the time the car was on the dyno and will have to schedule another time to finish the tune after the clutch is replaced and broken in.
Knowing what clutch you have is important because they are rated on the torque level they can hold. If you request a torque level higher then it holds and we go past that level and the clutch slips we will have to stop the tune there. The clutch may continue to slip even if we lower the power and you will ultimately have to replace the clutch.

Do you have any exhaust leaks?
(Any exhaust leak can throw off either the factory o2 sensor or our dyno Wide Band Sensor and cause the fueling to not be tuned correctly.)
You must have an exhaust tail pipe that exits somewhere outside the vehicle and not underneath. I.E. the tailpipe must come to the edge of the vehicle and not terminate anywhere under the car. Our Exhaust Extraction System in the Dyno room uses a tube we put right next to the tailpipe to extract the exhaust from the room

How Strong is your Battery/ Alternator?
(We can not tune with a dead battery or a charging system that does not work)

What are your Power Goals/ Expectations with your build / tune?
(Letting us know all your expectations of the tune prior to the tune will help us guide you in the right direction as you may not have all the necessary performance parts to achieve your goal.)

Date (required):

Email (required):

Name (required):

Did you read the Pre-Tune Checklist? By filling out and submitting this form you are acknowledging you have read the pre tune checklist.