Please only fill out this form if you have an engine build scheduled!
Knowing your goals with your vehicle will help us make sure we are doing the best build for your short term and long term needs. If you are looking for 500 WHP we would want to know what you plan to use it for. If you are straight line racing or doing some sort of track racing can dictate the recommendations to go with the build.
Knowing your current modifications will help us know what your current build state is so we can properly recommend needed parts and give a more accurate estimate. This also helps our tuner make sure there are no supporting modifications missing that may be needed for reliability or maybe a reason your engine failed. And lastly this ensures our initial startup base map is spot on to ensure proper break in. If you do not know your modifications you will have to pay a technician of ours to identify your modifications.
Knowing your vehicle year, make, model, transmission, and licence plate helps us ensure we have the correct parts for your vehicle here ready to go. With the license plate we can get your VIN number and have all of your proper OEM parts here. This all helps the turnaround process to be quicker.
Knowing your previous mechanical problems will help us give you a more accurate estimate as well as fix those problems cheaper while the engine is apart rather than find out after we get it running.
We will be taking your car to speeds in excess of 100 mph on the dyno. If you are not comfortable taking your car up to 100 mph then it is not ready to be dyno tuned. If your car vibrates or pulls to one side at high speeds we can not tune it.
Car Information
Year
Manufacturer
Model
Transmission type automanual
License Plate Number
A Cobb Accessport is Required for tuning All - 2015+ WRX and 2014+ FXT
Do you have a V2 or V3 AccessPort or no AccessPort? (If yes please list the model. Not sure which Accessport you have? Click here):
Stock Downpipe/J-Pipe or Brand (A GESi cat is needed to not throw the P0420 code. If you are catless or have any other cat than the GESi you will likely throw a P0420. We can no longer disable that code on an Accessport)
Stock Up-Pipe or Brand/ External Wastegate
If you have an EWG, please list the spring pressure
If you have an EWG, would you like there to be flutter or no flutter (ie. when the wastegate opens, do you want the exhaust to have a smooth sound or do you want it to have a fluctuation in sound.)
Stock Header or Brand
Stock Catback / Axleback or Brand
Stock Air Intake or Brand(This question is about your air intake where the air filter and MAF are located. This question is not about a aftermarket intake manifold. If you have a aftermarket intake manifold you can list that in the "Other Mods" section below.)
Stock Intercooler or Brand
Stock Turbo or Brand
Stock Fuel Injectors or Brand
Stock Fuel Rails or Brand(If you have a 2015-2021 STI and will be running fuel injectors larger than 1050cc this is required. With larger injectors on the 2015-2021 STI a bad stumble can happen between 2500-3500 rpm that can NOT be tuned out.)
Flex Fuel Kit / Gauge Brand (if applicable)
Fuel Pressure Sensor Brand (if applicable)
Stock Fuel Pressure Regulator or Brand (On 2008-2021 STI running aftermarket injectors we require a Cobb or other aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. The stock regulator is known to cause the 2800 rpm stumble that can't be tuned out.)
If aftermarket FPR, what is the PSI base pressure
Stock in tank fuel pump or brand (Size)
Stock High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) or brand (Size) (Applies only to 2015+ WRX)
If aftermarket fuel pump, is it hardwired?
Stock Bypass / Blow Off Valve or brand
Stock Boost Controller or brand
2nd restrictor pill removed? (applies only to 2015+ WRX if running the stock boost controller with aftermarket downpipe, instructions of how to remove the 2nd restrictor pill can be found here.)
Stock Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor brand (size) (for 2002-2014 WRX/ 2004-2007 an upgraded MAP sensor is required to run above 22psi.) (For 2008-2021 STI an upgraded MAP sensor is required to run above 26psi)
Stock Intake Air Temp (IAT) sensor or brand (An aftermarket IAT like GM or AEM is required to run Hybrid or full speed density on all EJ cars.)
Stock Engine or Built
If you have a built engine, please list any known part specs/brands
Stock Heads or Built
If you have a built heads, please list any known part specs/brands
TGV/Air pump/EGR deletes? If so, please list (if any of these are removed we are no longer able to shut the codes on with a Cobb Accessport. The TGV and EGR codes both put the car in limp mode and can't be on to be tuned and will not make full power if they are on.)
Do you have any other modifications? If so, please list
What kind of fuel is currently in your car? (91 non oxy, 91, 92, 93, E60, E85, or other)
What fuel are we tuning on? (91 non oxy, 91, 92, 93, E60, E85, Flex Fuel, or dual tunes)
Do you currently have or have had any Check Engine Lights? (We CANNOT tune a car if it has a check engine light due to any mechanical problems, if you currently don’t have any codes but get a code after the car is running on the new base map we provided, please update us with what codes you have. Your car should NOT have any check engine lights when you come in for the tune.
We can no longer disable check engine lights with the Cobb Accessport.
Examples:
Front O2 Sensor - P0030, P0031, P0032, P0131, P0132, P0134
System too lean/rich - P0171, P0172, P2096, P2097
TGV stuck closed but not deleted - P2004-P2022
Speed Sensor code causing limp mode - P0500
AVCS codes, Cam/Crank Correlation, Cam Over Advance - P000A, P000B, P000C, P000D, P0011, P0014, P0016, P0017, P0018, P0019 P0021, P0024
Air pump - P2431, P2432, P2433
Again if you have any of the codes listed above we can NOT tune your car.
Do you have ANY mechanical problems? (Example- Running Rich, Will not idle, Poor fuel economy, boost/vacuum leaks, Not hitting target boost, Overheating, major oil Leaks, or any coolant leaks. We can not tune a car with mechanical problems.)
How many miles do you estimate are on your clutch, is it a stock or aftermarket clutch, and do you suspect it's slipping? Knowing how many miles on the clutch or if its slipping are important because we can not tune a car with a slipping clutch. If you suspect it's slipping it would be a good idea to get it replaced before the tune, If it slips on the dyno we unfortunately have to stop tuning and you will be charged for the time the car was on the dyno and will have to schedule another time to finish the tune after the clutch is replaced and broken in. Knowing what clutch you have is important because they are rated on the torque level they can hold. If you request a torque level higher then it holds and we go past that level and the clutch slips we will have to stop the tune there. The clutch may continue to slip even if we lower the power and you will ultimately have to replace the clutch.
Do you have any exhaust leaks? (Any exhaust leak can throw off either the factory o2 sensor or our dyno Wide Band Sensor and cause the fueling to not be tuned correctly.) You must have an exhaust tail pipe that exits somewhere outside the vehicle and not underneath. I.E. the tailpipe must come to the edge of the vehicle and not terminate anywhere under the car. Our Exhaust Extraction System in the Dyno room uses a tube we put right next to the tailpipe to extract the exhaust from the room
How Strong is your Battery/ Alternator? (We can not tune with a dead battery or a charging system that does not work)
What are your Power Goals/ Expectations with your build / tune? (Letting us know all your expectations of the tune prior to the tune will help us guide you in the right direction as you may not have all the necessary performance parts to achieve your goal.)
Would you like a video of your car on the dyno? There is a $25 fee for this NoYes
Would you like a burble added to your tune (Opensource) or an additional burble tune (Accessport)? ($50 Charge) Burble tunes are typically active above 3500 rpm but can be set to be active above any RPM desired. If you are Opensource tuned it will always be active above a certain RPM. If you have an Accessport we will provide an additional tune that is the same but has Burble enabled. Lightly bouncing the throttle between 0 and 1-5% when active can help increase the sound and frequency of the burbles. Burble tunes will vary by car and different exhaust and if you have a catalytic converter will change the sound/intensity. Burble Tunes are USE AT YOUR OWN RISK and cause damage and/or wear out parts like catalytic converters. NoYes
Today's Date (required):
Email (required):
Name (required):
Did you read the Pre-Tune Checklist? By filling out and submitting this form you are acknowledging you have read the pre tune checklist.
